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No 33, April 2004

Endurance Cycling

From The Vineyards to the Mountains

Mal Hart

So what is it with this cycling thing? If you were to ask me three years ago what a derailleur is, I would have looked at you quite strangely. Like many people I bought a bike with a clear purpose in mind – to get over chronic respiratory ailments and a bulging waist line. Once you're on the saddle though you easily get hooked with the fun that cycling provides. The anticipated challenge of 25km/ week of riding around Sydney has been transformed into the ultimate cycling experience Ð touring in la belle France with the bonus of watching le Tour, le grand boucle centenniare in fact!

It's been some months since my return from France and I confess to having many a day with fond reflections of cycling from Bordeaux to the Alps. Yes folks, this is one of the best experiences that life can offer. Think rolling tree lined pathways beside a lazy Dordogne, chateaux, vineyards, medieval towns, vin rouge, pain au chocolat, duck, duck pate and even more duck. Yes, more delicious food than you can dream about with sweeping river valley or alpine views and of course really challenging hills Ð so, France has it all!

SO WHY FRANCE?

Well, instead of being a road warrior one wet day, I surfed the net for cycling related material and came upon Wide Open Road. Lots of emails later, I was convinced this was the trip for me and signed up. Andrew and Suzie operate a bunch of quality cycling tours, most popularly across Europe. The Bordeaux to Alps tour which I did took 13 days with an average of about 85 km per day. We had 16 riders from all over the world, with a wide range of backgrounds and interests, from the 23yr old tiger-suited Cippo racer to the more leisurely retired couple. Camping means the accommodation cost is kept down. And let me tell you that French camp grounds are something different

Ð typically lot's of grassy space with a 25m pool, kid's water- slide, bar and decent restaurant. A far cry from the average Aussie campsite. Ladies will also be pleased to know that even French rural toilet facilities have been brought into the 21st century. The tour is fully supported with luggage carried for you,The "sag" wagon is available should you feel a bit wrung out.A friendly mechanic is on tour and is only too happy to attend to any of the slightest malfunction as well.

Getting all the essential vitamins on the rest day.

The trip started off ¥at along the Dordogne and with each passing day an increasing challenge was presented. The longest day was 110km, the shortest was 60km on the "rest day".

Each day commences with a good bowl of museli, cafŽ and pain au chocolat. You head off at your own pace with your set of instructions, maps and comprehensive route notes. Usually people ride in small groups to keep the social mix up and meet for coffee or lunch. I certainly made sure I checked with Suzie on her recommended cafŽ and lunch stops-especially important since Suzie is the trained chef and has a nose for the ¥ner culinary spots. I should say that this was my ¥ rst attempt at touring Ð not a bad way to go ¥ rst up I hear you say! Well I certainly learnt a few good lessons early which I hadn't picked up from my Bike North rides.You may find these useful:

• Eat regularly and plan meals to avoid getting the bonk. Drink a lot of water. This is particularly so in hot weather. Unfortunately Day 1 was 38C and getting to that camp site at St Emilion riding into the wind and up the hill was not a pretty sight with no energy.
• Be mindful of the terrain when planning to eat. Eating a big meal before climbing a hill isn't the most pleasant experience.
• Regularly spend time out of the saddle to keep the blood ¥owing to those tender regions.
• Never assume that those with the ¥ash bikes have a clue where they are going.
• Pace yourself, especially early on in the day and give yourself a good 10-15 km ride to warm up before doing the Mario Cippolini impersonation.
• Do lots of stretching before and after the day on the bike.
• Never get between a Frenchman and his lunch!

THE ROUTE

The ¥rst couple of days were spent along the Dordogne River passing vineyard after vineyard, with many sandstone chateaux and quaint villages associated with the serious money that the French wine industry generates.Whilst Day 2 was long, a relaxing swim in the Dordogne by the campsite overlooking historic Limeuil made it one of the best days. Next it was on to Sarlat, which offered the gourmet treats of the Perigord Ð duck, pate and truffles.

The next few days were filled with cycling through medieval villages, many of which didn't seem to have changed much since the 1500's- satellite dishes excepting. Give me a Tarn Gorge any day. By now I was beginning to crave a change of scenery. On cue came the Gorge du Tarn and the Cevennes as we crossed over into the River Lot.

Next, Provence beckoned as we headed into the often windy Rhone Valley toward Avignon. The sight-seeing continued with the Pont du Gard, that famous Roman aqueduct, the papal palace and that famous bridge in Avignon. The challenges also ramped up with an optional side trip up Mont Ventoux. At 14% grade and 30 degree Celcius heat it was one for the seriously silly (or Keith!).

There is no doubt that the best day was the last with a climb up the Col d'Ornon and L'Alpe d'Huez with a fantastic tour finale dinner at the top. The views were just awe inspiring, especially the areas around Bourg d'Oisans. Riding L'Alpe d'Huez a few days before the Tour de France was loaded with atmosphere. Certainly this was a climb which made you draw heavily on those inner reserves. Naturally being greeted by a group of very bonded riders was just the tonic, combined with a few ¥ne lagers, to celebrate completion of a great personal challenge.

To cycle from Bordeaux to the Alps was a fantastic achievement and made for a wonderful cycling and holiday experience – one which I would encourage anyone to take. If you are interested in more information, I would only be too happy to provide more details or simply visit the Wide Open Ride website. It has details about just about everything you need to know and has some photos of previous trips to entice and seduce you.

This is an edited version of Mal and Jenny's article. The full article, which includes an account of an exciting encounter with L'Alpe d'Huez at Tour de France time, can be found on Bike North's website at www.bikenorth.org.au/reading/Tour_de_ France2003.pdf

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